Lady Anne Clifford is remembered most of all for her 40 year battle, claiming the right to inherit her father's estates in Yorkshire, Westmorland and Cumberland. Once she won that particular battle she started out restoring castles and churches, and building alms houses for the poor on the vast swathe of land she owned, stretching from the southern Dales in the south, to the Eden Valley in the north.
A glorious ride through North Yorkshire and Cumbria, taking in some of the most important historical buildings, towns and villages associated with Lady Anne Clifford, a wealthy northern landowner.
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The trail starts from Holy Trinity Church, at the top end of the High Street, in Skipton. The famous Leeds - Settle - Carlisle railway line runs through the town. Next to the Church, with its Clifford memorials, stands Skipton Castle, where Anne Clifford was born, and both are significant places to visit. You head NE on the A6131 (The Bailey) and after about 0.25 miles, bear left on Skipton Road towards Embsay, passing under the Skipton bypass (sp. Embsay). In Embsay, bear right, on to Shires Lane (sp. Bolton Abbey/Halton East), turning right at the T junction on to Low Lane, which becomes Holme Lane then Green Lane, and follow onfor about 3 miles until you come to Bolton Abbey, with its church, Bolton Priory. Bear left on the B6160 and just after 3 miles, pass Barden Tower (another Anne Clifford site), turn right onto a minor road and over Barden Bridge (sp. Appletreewick/Pateley Bridge).
Stay on Stangs Lane and after about 2 miles turn left at the T junction and ride through Appletreewick. After 2 miles turn right (sp. Hebden) and then left onto Skuff Road. Just over a mile later enter Hebden, pass through the village and then turn left onto the B6265 (sp. Grassington). This short stretch can be busy and is narrow in places.
Just over a mile later ride through Grassington, passing the National Park Visitors' Centre, with the centre of the village on your right. Grassington is well worth a quick visit, especially if you are a fan of Channel 5's All Creatures Great and Small. Leave the village by Wood Lane and just under 3 miles later pass straight through the hamlet of Conistone (sp. Kettlewell) and continue on this minor road northwards.
Leave Kettlewell on the B6160 and ride through the lovely village of Starbotton.
After about 2 miles ascend a fairly steep hill at Cray. No shame in getting off and pushing, admiring the waterfalls as you go. The descent into Bishopdale is steep. Test your brakes before you begin the descent. This is probably the toughest climb on the route.
5 miles down from the summit, it is worth a very short diversion to call in at West Burton, with its lovely waterfalls and lunch options.
Just out of West Burton, and before crossing the river, take the left hand fork up Eshington Lane (sp. Aysgarth) and the short, steep climb to the A684. Turn left then immediately right (sp. Aysgarth Falls National Park Centre). Beware the steep descent to the river. Cross the valley bottom to the western edge of Carperby and turn left (sp. Askrigg/Hawes). After about 3 miles, halfway between Woodhall and Newbiggin, look out for Nappa Hall low down on your left. It is worth walking down the small access road to take a look at this building, which has Anne Clifford connections. Then on through Askrigg, and again worth pausing if you are a fan of the original BBC version of All Creatures Great and Small. Leave Askrigg on the 'main' road heading west, following signs for Hardraw.
After about 4.5 miles, if you plan to stay in Hawes, take a left down a minor road just after Sedbusk into the town (sp. Hawes). Enter Hawes, with good options to stay overnight.
If you have stayed in Hawes, rejoin the main route the way you left it, by heading north. Turn left towards Hardraw (sp. Hardraw/Muker), with its famous waterfall behind the Green Dragon, and continue on to join the A684 (sp. Sedbergh/Kirkby Stephen). After about 4.5 miles turn right onto the B6259 towards Kirkby Stephen, following the Settle-Carlisle railway line, celebrating its 150th anniversary in 2026.
After 3 miles cross the border into Cumbria, and then after about another 3 miles stop at St Mary's Church in Outhgill, one of many renovated by Anne Clifford. Less than a mile further up the road lies Pendragon Castle, one of her homes, on an outcrop on your left. In 4 miles you reach the market town of Kirkby Stephen with its controversial statue of Lady Anne near the Tourist Information Office. Leaving the town, just after the Coast to Coast fish and chip shop, turn right (sp. Hartley), then left in Hartley Fold towards Winton.
Bear right in Winton at the play area, and along a fairly narrow lane with open views for just over a mile. The surface can be very uneven. You might want to get off and push. Just after a farmhouse and barn on the right, turn left. At the next T junction go left heading due west through Kaber. Join the A685 at the end of Popping Lane by turning right (sp. Brough/Scotch Corner). This 2 mile stretch into Brough can be busy and fast. Take care and stop to look at another Anne Clifford residence, Brough Castle. The ice cream is highly recommended!
Leave Brough heading west along Main Street, turning left as the houses turn into factories (sp. Great Musgrave). After about 2 miles and just out of Great Musgrave, turn left on the B6259 (sp. St Theobald's Church). Pass the church on the left (worth a look), and then turn right onto Swillings Lane. After 2 miles and after passing through Little Musgrave, turn right (sp. Bleatarn and Warcop) down a narrow lane. In Bleatarn, bear left and carry straight on with the white house on your left. Follow the road round as it takes a left and then turn right (sp. Appleby). At the T junction turn right (sp. Appleby). After 3.5 miles join the B6260 by bearing right (sp. Appleby).
Appleby deserves a slight diversion and stop and you might want to allow a couple of hours here. After spending time in the town, with its Anne Clifford sites and food and drink, cycle back to the top of the town and turn right just beyond the castle, joining national cycle route 71, a single track road with passing places (sp. Colby). Pass through the village of Colby staying on route 71 (sp. Kings Meaburn) and after about 2.5 miles bear right (sp. Kings Meaburn and Penrith).
2 miles beyond Kings Meaburn, turn left at the T junction towards Penrith sp. Penrith). Pass through Cliburn and after 3 miles, turn right (sp. Brougham).
Pause at Brougham Castle, the northern home where Anne Clifford died. You could now carry on to the centre of Penrith and the end of the trail.
Alternatively, lock up your bike and find the Countess Pillar on the edge of the very busy A66. It's about 0.25 mile East of Brougham Castle. There is no easy footpath or track so take care. Even more interesting but also more of a challenge to get to, especially after the start of major roadworks here in the spring of 2026, is Ninekirks Church. The safest way would be, somehow, to get by taxi or car to the small car park down below the A66 on the left, just opposite Whinfell Park. The car park may soon disappear under the roadworks though. But it is definitely worth the effort. Leave the car park and follow the track which heads north above the river. It's less than a mile to the remote church, renovated by Lady Anne and unchanged since. In terms of atmosphere, it is the place where I felt closest to a remarkable woman, a committed Christian and a generous benefactor.
Leave Brougham Castle, turning left over the River Eamont. Don't try and get on the A66. Instead turn left and use the underpass, ride parallel to the A66 and head up the lane passing Frenchfield Sports Centre, towards the town centre crossing the A686 via the Pelican Crossing. Penrith has an excellent range of both shops and accommodation. It's also on the main West Coast railway line north to Scotland and south to London. The official end of the trail is At Andrew's Church. National Cycle route7 runs alongside it.
Skipton in North Yorkshire is well connected by train, particularly via Leeds, which is the main interchange for many journeys.
Skipton railway station is close to the town centre, roughly a 10-minute walk from the High Street.
You can get to Skipton, North Yorkshire, by bus, with several routes serving the town.
The main bus connections include:
- Leeds to Skipton: The DalesWay 66 bus, via Guiseley and Ilkley.
- Keighley to Skipton: Regular bus services, including the DalesWay 66.
- Harrogate to Skipton: The 59 bus, via Bolton Abbey.
- Grassington to Skipton: The 72 bus, through the Yorkshire Dales.
Skipton bus station is conveniently located near the town centre.
You can get to Skipton, North Yorkshire, by road quite easily. The town is situated on the A59 and A65, with good road connections from Leeds, Bradford, Harrogate and the Midlands.
Edinburgh and Newcastle airports are your closest options. You could for example also fly into London or Manchester and catch a train.
