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The South Downs Way, stretching 100 miles over a rare large area of Outstanding natural
Beauty in crowded Southern Britain, generally follows the chalk (soft
limestone) ridge just to the north of the popular seaside towns on the Sussex
and Hampshire coast. At intervals the chalk down is broken by “Wind gaps” - river valleys, breaking the
ridge walking with some meandering visits to beautiful rivers such at the
Cuckmere, Arun. Ouse and Meon with all
their associated villages. Most of the route is ancient, made up out of the old
droving roads that took animals and goods between the market towns of the
region. There are many historical features, including a few remaining round
towered Saxon churches, ancient “Dew Ponds” providing water on the high Downs for
cattle, Cross dykes and tumulus burial sites, Bronze Age Hill forts and rings.
As it is so near the major population
centres of Southern Britain, the route has good transport links to the start
and from the end. It can be done over a long weekend for strong walkers or a 10
day walk for those who want to take their time.
There is not a lot of accommodation actually on
the trail, and so you should bear in mind that as well as the distance of each
day stage, you may have to walk an extra mile or two to your accommodation and
hence back again to the route on the following morning. Some accommodations
maybe prepared (perhaps at extra cost) to pick you up and return you in the
morning, for instance if you were staying at Lewes, you may come off the Way onto
the busy A27 for 2.5 miles, and a pick up would be most welcome. Way marking is
generally excellent with the white acorn mark on posts and stiles at intervals.
Please bear in mind that the trail can be very warm in summer, and there are
long sections where it will be difficult finding water, so carry capacity two
litres. Also except for in wet and muddy conditions, and especially in Summer,
the trail is generally free draining and firm, so spare a thought for your feet
and bring lightweight, well-cushioned boots, if you are used to walking in
them. Rain and strong cold winds however can be expected at any time of year, so make sure you bring a rain
shell and fleece.
Typical Itinerary
Stage 1:
Eastbourne to Alfriston 11 miles
With the Beautiful
white Cliffs of Beachy Head, The Seven Sisters, the meandering aquamarine
elegance of the Cuckmere River, on the pedestrian route and some interesting
villages beside, today probably has more scenic variety than any other. Starting
at the popular seaside resort of Eastbourne, the trail splits into two nearby;
there is a footpath along the cliffs Beachy Head and a bridleway past Jevington
and the ancient chalk carving of the Long Man of Wilmington. Both are mostly
along open downland paths. (Our profile refers to the Walking coastal route NOT
the bridleway). The footpath trail passes through the Cuckmere Valley and
Alfriston village, both very scenic although they can get busy at the height of
the summer season. The bridleway has more superb views, especially to the far
east where the view extends along the crescent of Pevensey Bay to Hastings and
Dungeness. We would recommend walkers however to take the coastal footpath
route, which although is about 5 km longer, has great scenery!
Stage
2: Alfriston
to the A27 (for Lewes) 14 miles
From
the beauty of the Cuckmere River at Alfriston, The Way rises up onto the High
Downs reaching a high point on this section at Firle Beacon. There are not
really any services on the route until you reach the River Ouse gap near Rodmell.
This is unless you elect to drop off the Downs and visit places such as Alciston,
Berwick and West Firle with various pubs and teashops. Fans of the Bloomsbury
group of Bohemian artists will be keen to make this diversion. After the Ouse
the trail climbs around Kingston and then drops again to the
A27, from where it is 2.5 miles to the historic town of Lewes.
Stage 3:
A27 ( Lewes) to Devil’s Dyke / Fulking 12 miles
This section takes you up onto the highest parts of the Downs, round the
back of the Brighton / Worthing conurbation, following mainly grassy tracks. You
go over the highest point on the route at Ditchling Beacon regular (weekend
buses from here down to Brighton during the summer). There are not many places
to eat or drink at enroute, but there is a very welcome pub at the Devil’s
Dyke, serving food throughout the year and you may find an ice cream van here as
well as at the Beacon. The white “Jack and Jill“ Clayton windmills are also
an attractive feature of the walk.
Stage 4:
Devil’s Dyke / Fulking to Storrington 14 miles
The route descends
via Upper Beeding and the Youth Hostal at Tottington Barn To the Ardur River
Valley from where Shoreham by Sea can be reached to the South. There follows a
lovely stretch of The Downs with great views down to the villages below and
ancient historical features abound such as Tumuli burial mounds, cross dykes and
the fascinating Chanctonbury Ring – a Bronze Age hill fort settlement with one
or two ghost stories attached to it. The Way drops steeply to cross the A24 and
then climbs once again for the leg above the town of Storrington, where
beautiful downland trails or a
minor road can be used to descend to the services of this town.
Stage 5:
Storrington to Cocking 12
miles
From
above Storrington the trail etches over the fields and through pockets of forest
to reach and descend to the attractive Triptych of villages: Amberley,
Houghton and Bury on the lazily meandering River Arun. There are great
opportunities for a bar crawl between the villages, excellent ale and
accommodation. The Way next follows flinty trails up Bury Hill, from where there
is a footpath off The Downs to the Roman Villa remains at Bignor, and continues
over Bignor Hill and its viewpoint (225m). There are many interesting historical
features today including a couple of minutes on the Roman Road called Stane
Street that connected Chichester with London. You could practice your navigation
trying to find the Neolithic Camp just off of the route. Chichester Cathedral is also visible seaward.
Descending into the Dry valley of the A285, there is then a steep climb up to a
point from where it is about 0.25 miles South (off route); to the highest point
on the South Downs at Crown Tegleaze at 253 m.
The route undulates across the scarp slope the Downs, soon entering dark
and sometimes muddy woodland before dropping down to the A286 on Cocking Hill,
from where it is a mile into Cocking village itself.
Stage 6: Cocking to Buriton 11 miles
Quite a convoluted and tiring section especially in bad weather when
some of the woodland trails maybe very muddy and slippery. No real chance of
enroute refreshment unless you drop off the way, but there is pubs at Elsted and
Harting a bit to the North. There are some interesting features, including the
Devil’s Jumps Tumuli; a group of large ancient burial hillocks. There is also
Beacon Hill, an Iron Age Hill fort that you can pass over on the trail, which
still has vestiges of the old ramparts and views towards Chichester Harbour.
Stage 7: Buriton
to Exton 12.5miles
Until 1989,
Buriton was the end of the route, but now it has been extended another 25 miles.
From above Buriton, The Way climbs and then descends through the Queen Elizabeth
Country park. There is a café and public Toilets. You then pass under the A3,
and climb steeply up Butser Hill with Bronze Age field patterns etched upon it.
The route then undulates over The Downs into some vast arable countryside. Then
it is a steep 100-meter climb up to “Ol’ Winchester Hill,” a National
Nature Reserve from where the isle of Wight can be seen on a clear day. Descend
to Exton (if walking) beside a beautiful clear chalk stream in which you may see
Brown Trout gliding about. At the end of the section, The necklace of Meon
Valley villages: Exton, Corhampton and Meonstoke are all within a mile of each
other and are beautiful places to stay around and to quaff beer by as the Meon
River is a real gem!
Stage 8: Exton to
Winchester 12 miles
This last section,
perhaps the least interesting scenically and historically, stretches from the
Meon valley up Beacon Hill with its rare Spring and summer plant life. The
Hampshire Downs then open up and roll on as you pass field after field.
Hopefully you will have some variety by reaching the “Milburys” pub when it
is open around lunchtime. Via the
old Manorial parish of Chilcomb and crossing over the busy A272, you arrive at
ye old Saxon capital of fayre England: Winchester. Home of Alfred The Great, the
Roundtable (a mediaeval creation), and the Cathedral with the longest
Knave, but one of the shortest towers in Britain.
Departing by train at the end of the tour: The
South Downs Way ends at Winchester in Hampshire. From here there are
trains to London Waterloo. There are as many as 4 services an hour taking
just over an hour. Services are direct.
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